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Jester
Jun 19th, 2007, 09:38 PM
So when do we start the oil thread???? :rolleyes:

J

Outcast
Jun 19th, 2007, 10:04 PM
I run straight WD 40 in mine. Is that bad?:p

Calkidd
Jun 19th, 2007, 10:18 PM
Aaaaaarrrrrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhh nnnnnnnnnoooooooooooooooo:mad:

Just went I got this thread squashed on another forum, oh no you didn't.

UFO
Jun 19th, 2007, 10:29 PM
So when do we start the oil thread???? :rolleyes:

J

Larry, Go to your room, stand in the corner, until you are sorry for what you could have started.

Jester
Jun 19th, 2007, 10:29 PM
Aaaaaarrrrrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhh nnnnnnnnnoooooooooooooooo:mad:

Just went I got this thread squashed on another forum, oh no you didn't.
BWWWAAAAAAHHHHAAAAAHHHHHAAAAHHHHAAAAaaaaaaaa ha

You cant kill the oil thread!! I just posess another poor fool and make him do my bidding!!! The oil thread will never die!!!

Jester (presently under the control of the oil thread demon) (help me, help......)

Whiplash
Jun 20th, 2007, 05:34 AM
I run straight WD 40 in mine. Is that bad?:p

I prefer Olive Oil. Hey, I'm half italian, what can I say?

Scarman
Jun 20th, 2007, 10:20 AM
Don't need no stinking oil. Just run some Slick 50 then drain all the oil and let it run. I seen it on TV so it must be true. :D

z_bassman
Jun 20th, 2007, 10:59 AM
Pfft... I just emptied the lawnmower into the bike. Old Hondas rock!!

Megan
Jun 20th, 2007, 09:38 PM
Aaaaaarrrrrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhh nnnnnnnnnoooooooooooooooo:mad:

Just went I got this thread squashed on another forum, oh no you didn't.

Which board is this on? How did I miss that?

Outcast
Jun 27th, 2007, 01:11 AM
Hmmm, For some reason I feel the need to ask what kind of oil everyone else uses? Full synthetic? Synthetic blend? What brand? What weight? :confused:

Maybe there's something to this oil thread demon stuff :eek:

cycletease
Jun 27th, 2007, 09:13 AM
Go for the purple!
Royal Purple 10/40

Calkidd
Jun 28th, 2007, 01:13 AM
Hmmm, For some reason I feel the need to ask what kind of oil everyone else uses? Full synthetic? Synthetic blend? What brand? What weight? :confused:

Maybe there's something to this oil thread demon stuff :eek:
Motul 5100 semi....24K+ miles on the bike. Have used nothing but Motul. Nothing against Royal Purple but to rich for my blood....12/quart:eek:

Whiplash
Jun 28th, 2007, 05:37 AM
Motul 5100 semi....24K+ miles on the bike. Have used nothing but Motul. Nothing against Royal Purple but to rich for my blood....12/quart:eek:

I hear you! I decided to put Royal Purple in my bike this time round. And as soon as I started pouring it in I'm like.....what the heck did I just do? I don't know, for the price I guess I expected a brilliant, sparkly golden liquid with healing powers to come out of the container, and angels singing in the background. :p

I suppose I could lie and say that the bike feels 50 degrees cooler and I've gained 20HP. Like when we were kids and you could run really fast after getting that new pair of shoes, remember???? :D

Scarman
Jun 28th, 2007, 12:48 PM
Amsoil for me. Bike never shifted so good and @ ~$8.00 / quart not all that expensive. Everyone has their favorites for various reasons.

Jester
Jun 28th, 2007, 02:06 PM
Amsoil for me. Bike never shifted so good and @ ~$8.00 / quart not all that expensive. Everyone has their favorites for various reasons.


I like Repsol because they give it to me free! ;) :D

and I'm a cheep b@$tard.

Now shouldnt we be arguing about the superior shear factors of my oil over your insignificant oil and the damage you will do to your motorcycle by using that crap??? :p:p:rolleyes:

Scarman
Jun 28th, 2007, 02:26 PM
You know, the Repsol Girls have always been a favorite of mine. Maybe I should switch? Oil that is... not girls.


I like Repsol because they give it to me free! ;) :D

and I'm a cheep b@$tard.

Now shouldnt we be arguing about the superior shear factors of my oil over your insignificant oil and the damage you will do to your motorcycle by using that crap??? :p:p:rolleyes:

yoageallen
Jun 28th, 2007, 10:28 PM
There's oil in these things? Where does the blinker fluid go? Is it synthetic?

Megan
Jun 28th, 2007, 10:47 PM
There's oil in these things? Where does the blinker fluid go? Is it synthetic?

The blinker fluid goes in right next to the brake light fluid silly;)

Calkidd
Jun 29th, 2007, 03:00 AM
The blinker fluid goes in right next to the brake light fluid silly;)
Actually, you use the same oil in the Muffler bearings as you do for the turn signal fluid.

Rune
Jul 1st, 2007, 12:12 AM
Oil..Shmoil... Hondas run forever. I think there is a (you can use oil if you want.) clause in the manual.

Chief
Jul 1st, 2007, 08:34 AM
Mango's!!! It's all mango's nowadays!

KRAYZ1
Jul 4th, 2007, 02:31 PM
Castrol EVO is what I run..... I've ran castrol in all my bike's :D

Scarman
Jul 6th, 2007, 08:22 PM
We're not talking about hair products Kenny. :D


Mango's!!! It's all mango's nowadays!

Chief
Jul 6th, 2007, 09:15 PM
We're not talking about hair products Kenny. :D

Makes for a nice sheen......Perhaps even a Martin Sheen :D

OGMike
Jul 7th, 2007, 04:48 PM
God I hate these threads:mad:

Jester
Jul 7th, 2007, 08:02 PM
God I hate these threads:mad:

Oh Yea, well My oil is better than your oil :p:p

Welcome Mike!!

Scarman
Jul 7th, 2007, 08:24 PM
God I hate these threads:mad:

I know what you're saying Mike. You get drawn into a really informative discussion on oil and the zen of viscosity, and then some guy comes along and and wants to talk about mangos.

Happens every single time and it frustrates the heck out of me. ;)

Jester
Jul 8th, 2007, 05:32 AM
I know what you're saying Mike. You get drawn into a really informative discussion on oil and the zen of viscosity, and then some guy comes along and and wants to talk about mangos.

Happens every single time and it frustrates the heck out of me. ;)

It's just not cricket!!

Sprocket
Apr 15th, 2008, 11:24 PM
I've got Mobile 1 racing 4-T synthetic 10w40 in mine :D

kidmoua
Apr 15th, 2008, 11:37 PM
I've got Mobile 1 racing 4-T synthetic 10w40 in mine :D

same here

Devlausdan
Apr 15th, 2008, 11:48 PM
Hmmm, For some reason I feel the need to ask what kind of oil everyone else uses? Full synthetic? Synthetic blend? What brand? What weight? :confused:

Maybe there's something to this oil thread demon stuff :eek:

Redline Full synthetic

Calkidd
Apr 16th, 2008, 06:47 AM
Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40.

SOUN1
Apr 16th, 2008, 07:23 AM
Shell Rotella synthetic 5w-40.

Bryan, 5W-40 Rotella T syn. gave you no problem? Clutch issue or shifting? I was going for 10W-40 or 15W-40 but no longer avail. I wanted to go with 5W-40 but wasn't sure.

mrlopez
Apr 16th, 2008, 09:12 AM
I take mine to the jiffy lube express LOL $20 & minutes done deal LOL :D

Calkidd
Apr 16th, 2008, 10:51 AM
Bryan, 5W-40 Rotella T syn. gave you no problem? Clutch issue or shifting? I was going for 10W-40 or 15W-40 but no longer avail. I wanted to go with 5W-40 but wasn't sure.
This will be the first time I have used it. I have read many of threads and write ups. The one thing that got me to switch is a rider actually sent a sample off for tesing after running it in his bike for over 4000 miles. The comments from the analyzers was they were pleasently surprised and very impressed with the way Rotella held up. It only dropped one point down from 40 weight to 30 weight.

A gallon of Rotella Synthetic will cost me $18.00 a gallon of Motul Synthetic will cost me $50.00...do the math.

Right now it is in my track bike I will let you know after Friday.

SOUN1
Apr 16th, 2008, 11:33 AM
I hear alot of good write up about 10W-40 but I can't get that in syn. A distrubitor in Fresno say they NO longer make it in 10W-40 & 15W-40. I was wondering if the 5W-40 will be too thick. An race fuel (110 octaine) is @ $9.50per gallon.

Calkidd
Apr 16th, 2008, 01:20 PM
I hear alot of good write up about 10W-40 but I can't get that in syn. A distrubitor in Fresno say they NO longer make it in 10W-40 & 15W-40. I was wondering if the 5W-40 will be too thick. An race fuel (110 octaine) is @ $9.50per gallon.I won't be too thick....The "w" does not stand for "weight" it stands for "winter". So when you are riding your bike, usually during the spring and summer months you won't have to worry about the 5w viscocity.

I was wondering about the price of race fuel...That's ok I will stick with 91.

kidmoua
Apr 16th, 2008, 01:27 PM
I was wondering about the price of race fuel...That's ok I will stick with 91.

werd

Wile_E_Coyote
Apr 16th, 2008, 02:05 PM
I was wondering about the price of race fuel...That's ok I will stick with 91.

That only works if you have your motor tuned for it correct?

Barney
Apr 16th, 2008, 02:21 PM
[QUOTE=Calkidd;10972]I won't be too thick....The "w" does not stand for "weight" it stands for "winter". So when you are riding your bike, usually during the spring and summer months you won't have to worry about the 5w viscocity.

The lower the number the thinner the oil. They add the "5" weight so the 40 weight so its not to thick in the winter. So the 5w40 is going to be a thinner oil than the 10w40 or the 15w40. If you don't ride in the winter or change before it gets cold I have heard it is best to run a straight 30? Any body else heard this?

Calkidd
Apr 16th, 2008, 03:05 PM
The lower the number the thinner the oil. They add the "5" weight so the 40 weight so its not to thick in the winter. So the 5w40 is going to be a thinner oil than the 10w40 or the 15w40. If you don't ride in the winter or change before it gets cold I have heard it is best to run a straight 30? Any body else heard this?.
You are sort of on the right track, but they don't "add" other weights to "thicken" the oil, it's not gravey we are talking about here.:D

Viscosity= Oil is heated up to a specific temprature and then poured through specific diameter hole. Viscosity is then determined on how long that oil take to flow through that hole. If it flows fast it gets a lower number if is flows slow it gets a larger number. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow.

Polymers are added, not other oils, to the lighter base viscosity oils ie. 5w, 10w and 20w. This allows the oil to have different weights at different tempratures. Think of these polymers as coils that contract during the cold tempratures and allow the oil to have its low viscosity value. When the oil comes up to operating temps the "coils" unwind and increase the oil's viscosity rating. At 100 degrees C the polymers only allow the viscosity to be as high as the highest rating of that oil.

I hope that clears up a few things.

GusGus748s
Apr 16th, 2008, 03:20 PM
You are sort of on the right track, but they don't "add" other weights to "thicken" the oil, it's not gravey we are talking about here.:D

Viscosity= Oil is heated up to a specific temprature and then poured through specific diameter hole. Viscosity is then determined on how long that oil take to flow through that hole. If it flows fast it gets a lower number if is flows slow it gets a larger number. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow.

Polymers are added, not other oils, to the lighter base viscosity oils ie. 5w, 10w and 20w. This allows the oil to have different weights at different tempratures. Think of these polymers as coils that contract during the cold tempratures and allow the oil to have its low viscosity value. When the oil comes up to operating temps the "coils" unwind and increase the oil's viscosity rating. At 100 degrees C the polymers only allow the viscosity to be as high as the highest rating of that oil.

I hope that clears up a few things.

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

SOUN1
Apr 16th, 2008, 03:47 PM
Okay, I contact the distrubitor and this is what he said..All 10-40 & 15-40, when switching to FULL SYNTEC. is 5W-40...So I'll go to walmart tonight and get a gallon or 2..

Sprocket
Apr 16th, 2008, 04:00 PM
Okay, I contact the distrubitor and this is what he said..All 10-40 & 15-40, when switching to FULL SYNTEC. is 5W-40...So I'll go to walmart tonight and get a gallon or 2..

I'd stick to motorcycle specific oil if I were you. Automotive oil has different additives that can FU your clutch and transmission.

Barney
Apr 16th, 2008, 04:17 PM
You are sort of on the right track, but they don't "add" other weights to "thicken" the oil, it's not gravey we are talking about here.:D

Viscosity= Oil is heated up to a specific temprature and then poured through specific diameter hole. Viscosity is then determined on how long that oil take to flow through that hole. If it flows fast it gets a lower number if is flows slow it gets a larger number. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow.

Polymers are added, not other oils, to the lighter base viscosity oils ie. 5w, 10w and 20w. This allows the oil to have different weights at different tempratures. Think of these polymers as coils that contract during the cold tempratures and allow the oil to have its low viscosity value. When the oil comes up to operating temps the "coils" unwind and increase the oil's viscosity rating. At 100 degrees C the polymers only allow the viscosity to be as high as the highest rating of that oil.

I hope that clears up a few things.

Thanks, sounds like you have a lot of time to read!:D I have heard alot of explanations before and this is one of the best.

aaw749r
Apr 16th, 2008, 05:34 PM
I use the used Rotella-T 15W-40 that comes out of my 2000 Ford Diesel F-350, it is thin and pre-blackened!

Seriously, the thinner the oil the beter for our high revving engines. The thicker oil at high revs will cause excess drag (not friction) on the moving parts building excess heat in the oil breaking it down more quickly as well as robbing hP. I would stay away from anything higher than 10W-X.

I currently use Motule 300V in 10W-40. A buddy of mine who races circle track in a cage had his engine on a dyno and he was making just under 700hP with a high performance conventional (forgot the specifics) in a small block chevy. The only change he made was to drain the conventional oil, change the filter, and fill with the ESTER based Motule 300V. The next pull on the dyno resulted in 714 hP. There is something to be said for that. Nothing but ESTER based for me!

CRASH972
Apr 16th, 2008, 06:53 PM
I thought that 5w-40w read as, when cold will work as 5w, when operating temp works as 40w.

ducbill996
Apr 16th, 2008, 07:54 PM
I thought that 5w-40w read as, when cold will work as 5w, when operating temp works as 40w.

thats what calkidd said... he just used alot more words...

hippylong
Apr 17th, 2008, 12:21 PM
First off.
i found just having oil is the key.
I've run crap oil and good oil at all sae ratings.
were talking riding since.1976...
i have never had a clutch self destruct from crappy oil.
just a lack of oil.....or bad casting...
the key is to change your oil all the time.
the clutch ,top end and tranny use same oil as engine.
so it gets ground up to nothin..

so ....no problem using cheep oil.
yer going to change it every 30 days ...or so..
sAe
1st number is viscosity cold
2nd number is viscosity hot...

i go multiweight in summer
and straight in winter
Hippylong

Sprocket
Apr 17th, 2008, 02:26 PM
First off.
i found just having oil is the key.
I've run crap oil and good oil at all sae ratings.
were talking riding since.1976...
i have never had a clutch self destruct from crappy oil.
just a lack of oil.....or bad casting...
the key is to change your oil all the time.
the clutch ,top end and tranny use same oil as engine.
so it gets ground up to nothin..

so ....no problem using cheep oil.
yer going to change it every 30 days ...or so..
sAe
1st number is viscosity cold
2nd number is viscosity hot...

i go multiweight in summer
and straight in winter
Hippylong

Oil today isnt the same as it was 30 years ago. Auto oil has friction inhibitors and other additives that will FU your clutch. Besides if you use cheap oil and change it every 30 days its not really cheap LOL A good motorcycle specific synthetic oil will run you about $10 a quart, but you only have to change it once a year if that.

ducbill996
Apr 17th, 2008, 03:13 PM
A good motorcycle specific synthetic oil will run you about $10 a quart, but you only have to change it once a year if that.

you need to change it more often than that, whether it's syn or not...
the clutch and transmission put alot of residue and and very fine metal filing's in the oil, and the filter doesn't catch it all...not to mention all the byproducts from combustion that gets blown past the rings no matter how new your engine is...and syn oil still breaks down from heat. it just takes longer than con oil...
change your oil regularly! its cheaper than rebuilding your engine!

Daisy
Apr 18th, 2008, 01:20 PM
You need Motorcycle specific oil. I used regular on my old bike. And it really messed up. It did not run right. The clutch slipped all the time. It was bad. Put MC specific oil in and it cleared everything up. The oils are different.

Calkidd
Apr 19th, 2008, 08:07 AM
I'd stick to motorcycle specific oil if I were you. Automotive oil has different additives that can FU your clutch and transmission.
First off Rotella is a heavy duty oil that has specifically been used in motorcycles and analyzed. Rotella is not your "automotive" oil which can have friction modifiers in them. Yes, those will cause your clutch to slip.

Calkidd
Apr 19th, 2008, 08:12 AM
You need Motorcycle specific oil. I used regular on my old bike. And it really messed up. It did not run right. The clutch slipped all the time. It was bad. Put MC specific oil in and it cleared everything up. The oils are different.On this note I ran Rotella in the track bike this Friday and found that is didn't perform as well as I thought it would. I like the idea of the cost factor, but I didn't like the way the bike ran.

Now you can't just go get any oil off the shelf and run it. This was not what I was refering to. I specifically mentioned Shell synthetic Rotella which has been used by racers and street riders alike. I personally didn't like it.

SOUN1
Apr 19th, 2008, 10:00 AM
I used the 5-40 Rotella syn for the track. Shifting was smooth and not slipage but at the same time I don't ride like CALKIDD;) In all I'm happy with the performance and the event on track day. The 10 will be retired and the ZX6R will be reborn:D Anyone up for Sunday??

Calkidd
Apr 19th, 2008, 11:34 AM
Here is another thing I noticed and didn't remember this last time. I took a glance down at my temp gauge on the front straight and it said 224 degrees:eek:. Did anyone else's bike run hot that day?

up in smoke
Apr 19th, 2008, 12:51 PM
castrol gtx in all my machines. never had any problems

hippylong
Apr 19th, 2008, 01:01 PM
i agree with up in smoke.
since 1983.
I've run castrol gtx..
never a prob.
but i have not had a brand new bike since..
uh ..ummm.
1989 : ( So I don't know...

..

ducbill996
Apr 19th, 2008, 07:44 PM
I took a glance down at my temp gauge on the front straight and it said 224 degrees:eek:. Did anyone else's bike run hot that day?

my was runnin around 180 but it never gets hott...

the 999 would run around 220 to230 on the track!

up in smoke
Apr 19th, 2008, 07:47 PM
my bike was puking water up in the pits when i came in the second time.

GsxR1000Ryda
May 12th, 2008, 02:11 PM
I'll be doing my first oil change on the k8 1000 today ,so i went out and bought the Suzuki Oil (10w-40). My plans were to do the first oil change w/ the suzuki stuff, them move to the Motul 5100 (half synthetic i think) then with the 3rd oil change go to Motul 300 (full synthetic). One of the guys @ clawsons was telling me that I should never run Full synthetic oil on a bike with a slipping clutch. He said that my gears would be slipping and newer bikes should never run Full synthetic. Is there any truth behind that cuz to me, it sounds like BS. but What do i know.......

Sprocket
May 12th, 2008, 02:36 PM
I'll be doing my first oil change on the k8 1000 today ,so i went out and bought the Suzuki Oil (10w-40). My plans were to do the first oil change w/ the suzuki stuff, them move to the Motul 5100 (half synthetic i think) then with the 3rd oil change go to Motul 300 (full synthetic). One of the guys @ clawsons was telling me that I should never run Full synthetic oil on a bike with a slipping clutch. He said that my gears would be slipping and newer bikes should never run Full synthetic. Is there any truth behind that cuz to me, it sounds like BS. but What do i know.......

Thats BS, synthetic doesnt lube better it just lasts longer.

Big Kahuna
May 12th, 2008, 02:38 PM
I'll be doing my first oil change on the k8 1000 today ,so i went out and bought the Suzuki Oil (10w-40). My plans were to do the first oil change w/ the suzuki stuff, them move to the Motul 5100 (half synthetic i think) then with the 3rd oil change go to Motul 300 (full synthetic). One of the guys @ clawsons was telling me that I should never run Full synthetic oil on a bike with a slipping clutch. He said that my gears would be slipping and newer bikes should never run Full synthetic. Is there any truth behind that cuz to me, it sounds like BS. but What do i know.......Yeah, I had heard the same stories when I started riding, but quickly found that it was just not true. The only thing you need to look for is molybdenum, make sure the oil you put in bikes with wet clutches contain no moly!

Here's a site with way too much info about oil::

All About Motor Oil (http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html)

I use full synthetic in all of my bikes and change the oil once every year.

Interesting information about oil can be found on Speedy's page:

Honda CBR1000RR Tech (http://www.hooliganbiketech.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_frameindex.htm)

Look on the left menu for "Oil Change" and "Oil Analysis".

GsxR1000Ryda
May 12th, 2008, 02:45 PM
I'll be doing my first oil change on the k8 1000 today ,so i went out and bought the Suzuki Oil (10w-40). My plans were to do the first oil change w/ the suzuki stuff, them move to the Motul 5100 (half synthetic i think) then with the 3rd oil change go to Motul 300 (full synthetic).

So I could go ahead and go with this route?

aaw749r
May 12th, 2008, 03:00 PM
So I could go ahead and go with this route?

Personally, I would consult either a reputable dealership or call Suzuki directly. Their number should be in the owners manual.

SOUN1
May 12th, 2008, 03:22 PM
I used full syn. on my 05...no problem on my end. I understand your feeling about taking care of your baby..you only want to treat her best..Do what will make you sleep better at night..

GsxR1000Ryda
May 12th, 2008, 03:29 PM
I used full syn. on my 05...no problem on my end. I understand your feeling about taking care of your baby..you only want to treat her best..Do what will make you sleep better at night..

werd

Big Kahuna
May 12th, 2008, 04:13 PM
So I could go ahead and go with this route?Nah, I would change the oil within the first 600 miles and then go straight to synthetic. Like others have said, full synth is not any more slippery that conventional oil. Also, blends are worthless, I would either got with standard, or full synth. You don't need to ease your bike into the full synth oil, just do it.

GsxR1000Ryda
May 12th, 2008, 04:15 PM
Nah, I would change the oil within the first 600 miles and then go straight to synthetic. Like others have said, full synth is not any more slippery that conventional oil. Also, blends are worthless, I would either got with standard, or full synth. You don't need to ease your bike into the full synth oil, just do it.

I could just tell the guy behind the parts counter @ clawons had no idea what the F*** he was talking about.

Big Kahuna
May 12th, 2008, 04:30 PM
I could just tell the guy behind the parts counter @ clawons had no idea what the F*** he was talking about.Most of the people you will talk to at the dealerships are into sales!!!!! Most of the time they don't have a clue. That's why I tend to listen to the guys who really know bikes, and thankfully I have access to a lot of them. :)

Sprocket
May 12th, 2008, 04:51 PM
Nah, I would change the oil within the first 600 miles and then go straight to synthetic. Like others have said, full synth is not any more slippery that conventional oil. Also, blends are worthless, I would either got with standard, or full synth. You don't need to ease your bike into the full synth oil, just do it.

Yep, what he said. The clowns behind the counter at Clawson dont know squat.

Calkidd
May 12th, 2008, 05:01 PM
I have done some research and would you believe there are a lot of racers out there (WERA, AFM, etc) who us Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 in their race bike? Yes, that is right a diesel oil. I have read many of threads that show this oil works and works well for $17/gallon compared to $45/gallon.

One post a rider submitted a Rotella sample to Blackstone Labs and had it anylized. The lab was shock how well this oil held up having over 4000 miles in a motorcycle engine. The oil only lost one point in viscosity lowering it to 30 weight.

I know let the flaming begin but I have done my research. Actuallly, I just ran my track bike at the track on Friday with Rotella in it and it ran fine inspite of a ignition problem unrelated to the oil.

GsxR1000Ryda
Nov 16th, 2009, 08:53 AM
If anyone here has ever used Motul 300v, had you noticed any slipping on the clutch? I was told that my clutch might be slipping from this oil and was thinking about soaking the plates in a semi synthetic and reinstalling, with the semi this time.

aaw749r
Nov 16th, 2009, 10:27 AM
300V is all I use and have never had an issue with clutch slippage.
Check the Suzuki manual about proper wheeling method, if you dont have the yut-ghuuu method down properly it could potentially cause preamature clutch failure.

Calkidd
Nov 16th, 2009, 10:43 AM
Since you have dry clutches it really doesn't matter what oil you run Ray. But you're probably on the right page regarding whoolies.

GsxR1000Ryda
Nov 16th, 2009, 10:48 AM
I'm going to check out my plates sometime this week just to see what condition there in. I'm just wondering if anyone here has noticed those symptoms with the 300v. Oh and trust me, I'm not doubting the whoolies or my Yut Ugh technique, trust me.